Every other attempt I made to bend it proved futile. How have you handled those issues. Set the top plate on top of the bottom plate and clamp in place with C clamps. Remove the brake and drill the holes starting with a ø4mm drill bit. I could have used smaller screws • (4) #10 x 1-1/2" Flat Head Machine Screws - for handles to bender.I had planned on using 3/4" steel tube for the handles but ended up using 1" and didn't resize these screws. Mount the brake in a flat and stable metal surface (in my case I have use my hydraulic portable table using two pieces of angle-iron (e.g. I just last month made one from plans by Dave Gingery in "sheet metal technology" out of oak for the bending arm and the bed and purple heart for he leaf the part that does the clamping It uses C-clamps for the hold down but looks a lot like yours. Mostly easy to follow pic's.Keep up the good work. … In place of the bending angle you can use a 2x4 covered with sheet metal hinged to the base. Please note: the hypotenuse of the triangle of an angle-iron 50x50mm is 71mm. Don't worry about how to ensure the 100% verticality position pipe/drill.The inner hole diameter of pipe, is big enough so the drill bit can follow the correct direction of the original hole easily. DIY Sheet Metal Bending Tool || Sheet Metal Brake - YouTube We will need a drill bit ø16mm and a piece of round bar ø16x65mm to fix this problem. And I don't even work in metal. I'll still be building one later this year :). All the measures for cuts start from the edges, so it doesn't matter the total length of the brake, Use the formulas below to calculate the desirable length for the bender and brake. There's been more than a few times I've needed to bend metal and I've resorted to clamping 2x4s together and using a hammer. Place another piece from the same sheet metal strip 0.50mm vertically onto the bed and between the brake and the first one. Clamping the pipe to bench foot with a vise grip and clean the hole using an electric hand drill with ø16 drill bit. Mark and then cut to length the pieces for the brake, bender, bushing bases and bed if you have go on channel iron or tube. I used a file to create a flat spot in the hold down angle, used a metal punch to create a start for the drill bit and drilled a hole for the carriage bolts. This is plainly obvious to any engineer Really! Ah, but I am plainly not 'any engineer' :D I'm afraid I have not looked at or even seen a press brake close up. What gauge metal can you bend with it? I discovered it would be nice if the hold down would pop up when not in use to allow metal to slide in easily. I found this instructable very informative. As long as we have collected all the needed materials, we will need to calculate the bender's and brake's length according the desirable maximum Full Width. 4.4 out of 5 stars 16. With the hinges in place, I marked the screw openings on the 2x4 and drilled a 5/32" hole. "Sheet Metal Bender Brake DIY Fully Modified" here is the linkhttps://youtu.be/H3B9kJIfx2A. I had to re-drill the recess for the screw head in the hinge, since one side of the hinge is now reversed. 30x30mm or 35x35mm).Be sure that the hypotenuse (BC) of the triangle (ABC) of your brake is absolute parallel with the surface of your base and do welds to keep it all in place. I always wanted a brake press in my workshop but I didn't want to shell out huge sums of money for a commercial one. (See attached photos). There is 4" of 2x4 on each end for clamping. I also have a full face shield because I like my face and eyes. About: I like to create, no matter the medium. but the top bar must be a 3mm thick bar). Parts List:• (3) 1/8" x 1.5" x 1.5" x 4' Steel Angle - for hold down and bender, I had a scrap angle so I only bought two.• (2) 1" x 3' 16 gauge Steel Box Tube - this will be cut in half for handles• (1) 1.5" x 3.5" x 8' wood 2x4 - this will be cut to 48". The edges contacting the center plate have a slight radius. But this homemade … If it's ok: proceed to welding. The use of a new unused 180mm grinding disk is required for best performance. The first step was cutting the components.The 2x4 was cut to 48". See more ideas about metal, metal working tools, metal bender. While it wasn't really necessary, I cut out the front face of the 2x4 so that the center plate would sit flush. Also if you interested to see some modifications of this brake;you can visit my instructable page "DIY Sheet Metal Brake Fully Modified". Angle grinder 115mm 4 ½” or 125mm 5” Angle grinder 180mm 7”, 2. Until I experience the issue, I won' bother. The bending angle is what folds the metal. Doesn't matter, this was excellently done. So when start the grinding, watch the lines, and be careful, to not exceed the limits. Cut the angle iron and steel plate in sizes listed above, making sure … I didn't like an adjustment on the clamp angle. Now I'm trying to come up with a project that requires metal! Sure I have difficulties to translate.RegardsBill, I've been wanting to make one of these for a while but the thing that has put me off has been sharpening of the clamping bar's edges. For the hinges to orient correctly and align the angles, I needed (2) #8 washers between the hinge and 2x4, (32) total. and be adjacent to both sides of angle-iron. You can see some modifications about this brake in my YouTube video. If you go on channel-iron or tube and bushing bases are welded, an oiling hole at bushings is required. 2pcs Spring coil ø2mm 4~5 turns, 7. I'll take a look at the You Tube video to see the modifications. Tightening the wing nuts would hold everything in place. To grind them flat, I'd have to create some kind of jig to ensure the grinder is absolutely parallel to the angle. I love metalworking, is my favorite hobby. Van Mark Aluminum-Sheet Metal Brake Mark II 10' 6" (Leg Kit Sold Separately) 5 out of 5 stars (4) 4 product ratings - Van Mark Aluminum-Sheet Metal Brake Mark II 10' 6" (Leg Kit Sold Separately) I saw a how to on making a metal brake and wanted to make a few modifications. I just checked and don't have anything heavier on hand to test right now. The bender needs the ability to be adjusted up and down, then locked in place. I used 2x4's clamped together prior to this. With the folding angle still clamped in place, I marked the hinge holes on the bending angle, unclamped it, used the metal punch, and drilled 1/4" holes, recessing the heads with a 1/2" bit. A nut on the back of the bolt keeps everything in place. It will break right off. 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